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Research Streams

Creating & Capturing Value consists of four research streams that focus on different units of analysis.

The units of analysis move across the global, national, and local levels. They encompass the interactions among different actors in the global apparel industry from shareholders of large corporations down to the workers that sew our clothes.

1

Financialized sourcing practices

Investor preferences and capital market dynamics shape the corporate business strategies of apparel brands and retailers, which affects how these corporations govern their apparel global supply chains

2

Buyer-supplier bargaining power

Apparel brands and retails and their suppliers co-create products, but they struggle over the distribution of value. The outcomes of these struggles depend on market power, intellectual property and capabilities.

3

Labor regimes: capital, labor and the state

Labor regimes in apparel factories are produced when apparel GVC dynamics intersect with the structural material conditions in supplier countries, shaping supplier firm's business strategy, government's political responses, and workers' compliance or resistance.

4

Worker agency and worker mobilization

Workers and their collective organisations play an active role in shaping working conditions and labor regimes across the apparel industry by complying with or contesting firm strategies.   

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