top of page


Starting a conversation...


Wage Determinants in Global Apparel Value Chains: Insights from Ethiopia and Kenya
As global brands have expanded their supply chains, apparel production has increasingly shifted to low-wage countries in the Global...
Jul 21


Are shareholders the main beneficiaries of the global apparel industry?
Who captures most of the profits created in the global apparel industry? When discussing distributive issues in apparel global value...
Apr 23


Why do labor regimes change? Introducing a labor-led profit squeeze approach
The ‘Creating and Capturing Value’ project seeks to understand how various actors in the global apparel industry – including brands and...
Feb 3


Lived experiences of women workers at an apparel export factory in Ethiopia
The global apparel industry is characterized by the outsourcing of labor-intensive production to countries with low-cost labor, and as a...
Jan 2


Worker power and decent work in apparel export industries
Explaining variation in apparel workers’ wages and working conditions, both between producer countries and over time, is a key objective...
Dec 12, 2024


What determines wages in apparel export firms in Kenya and Ethiopia?
We have been collecting data on firms and workers in the apparel export sectors on Kenya and Ethiopia to help us better understand the...
Sep 11, 2024


Conducting multi-sited fieldwork to investigate transnational capital in GVCs
As part of our ‘Creating and Capturing Value’ project, we seek to investigate the drivers for (uneven) value distribution between fashion...
Sep 10, 2024


The making of Sri Lankan global apparel suppliers
It is not well-known that Sri Lankan apparel firms are among the largest suppliers globally. The top three Sri Lankan suppliers—MAS,...
Jun 4, 2024


Manufacturing capabilities, intangible assets or buyer relations? The drivers for value capture among apparel supplier firms
Throughout the past two decades, the apparel export industry has grown rapidly, doubling its export value since the turn of the...
May 7, 2024


Towards shorter supply chains? Understanding shifts in the global apparel industry
There has been much talk about the reconfiguration of global supply chains in recent years. Intensified geopolitical tensions, the...
Mar 30, 2024
bottom of page